Jean and Jacques’ excellent adventure

IQALUIT — When the leaders of France and Canada stepped out onto the streets of Pangnirtung last Monday, a crowd of residents greeted them with a warm wave of applause.

This welcome was typical of the amiable reception that Prime Minister Jean Chrétien and French President Jacques Chirac received on their whirlwind Labour Day visit to Nunavut last weekend.

Over the course of their busy two-day sojourn, from late Sunday night until early Tuesday morning, the two managed to take in the sights of Iqaluit, Cape Dorset and Pangnirtung.

“Our short visit won’t let us even begin to understand the vastness of your territory,” Chirac told a gathering at Nunavut’s new legislature on Monday morning.

“But it will allow us to see a bit of its beautiful landscapes, including the magnificent site of Pangnirtung, and to discover first-hand the power of Inuit art through its creators and artists, who are waiting for us in Cape Dorset.”

In Cape Dorset, a round of activities introduced the two leaders to the community’s art and people.

Many local artists were on hand to greet the visitors during their stop at Cape Dorset’s West Baffin Co-operative.

Cape Dorset artists

Renowned Cape Dorset artist Kenojuak Ashevak, who proudly wore her decoration as a Companion of the Order of Canada, hadn’t met Chrétien during his last visit to Cape Dorset in 1994 with Helmut Kohl, who was then the president of Germany.

But after watching Chrétien often on television, Kenojuak said she was eager — and a bit nervous — to see him in person and shake his hand.

Printmaker Mary Pudlat, keen on sharing her art with the two visitors, said that it was a chance for Inuit and Qallunaat to learn from each other.

Kananginak Pootoogook’s artwork in “The Inuit World” was among the gifts that the Cape Dorset co-operative presented to Chirac.

“I’m happy that it will be going way over there,” Kananginak said.

When the visitors descended on Cape Dorset’s stone cutting studio, they lavished praise on the display of large carvings, stopping to marvel over their smooth, polished surfaces.

At the print studio, Pudlat offered her insights into the art of printmaking. Before leaving the Cape Dorset co-op, the French president purchased a print and two large carvings of a walrus and a bear.

At the community centre, the next stop for the two leaders in Cape Dorset, about 80 invited guests lined up to shake hands and take souvenir snap-shots.

Old friends meet again

For many, like Osuitok Ipellie, it was a second or even third meeting with Chrétien. They first met in 1968.

“When we were both young,” the two joked.

Renowned Cape Dorset throat singers Mikkigak Qaunak and Petaulassie Timmangiak then performed for the visitors.

Chrétien told the gathering that they were having a “fabulous day,” while Chirac thanked everyone for their hospitality.

“It’s my great pleasure to be in the cultural capital of Nunavut, to be in the heart of artistic creation in the territory,” Chirac said, speaking in French, heavily accented English, and Inuktitut. “I hope the best for you and your families and your kids and for Nunavut. Qujannamik!”

A delighted mayor, John Curley, accepted a gold medal from the Republic of France on behalf of Cape Dorset.

In Pangnirtung, at the Uqqurmiut Centre for Arts and Crafts, Chirac toured the tapestry studio and met printmaker Andrew Qappik, whose work the French leader already owns. Chrétien bought a bone kayak, a tassled “Pang” hat, and a print by Jacopoosie Tiglik for his for his wife, Aline.

But the Uqqurmiut Centre had to compete for the visitors’ attention with aspectacular view of the Pangnirtung Fiord.

The leaders, their wives, Premier Paul Okalik, and a small army of delegates and journalists walked down to the old blubber station, accompanied by Margaret Karpik, the manager of the Angmarlik Visitors Centre, who gave a running history lesson as they walked along.

Awe-struck by the view, Chirac was also impressed by Karpik’s elaborate amautik and kamiks.

“You’re very elegant because of it,” the French president remarked.

The visitors then took a brief helicopter down the fiord, where they stopped for coffee with an Auyuittuq park warden.

By invitation only

In Iqaluit, they topped off the day with an invitation-only reception and concert by Susan Aglukark at Inuksuk High School.

Chrétien said that he was delighted to share his long acquaintance with the North, that began with his appointment as federal minister of Indian Affairs in 1968.

“Maybe I prefer being prime minister, but it was a wonderful period,” Chrétien told Nunatsiaq News. “Mr. Chirac thanked me for having taken two additional days to accompany him, but let’s say I enjoyed myself, too.”